Fragrances are traditionally made in several strengths to reflect the function of each. Most quality perfumes have been launched as an extrait (please see table below) before coming onto the market in lesser concentrations at lower prices. The following table shows the approximate scent content of the different concentrations in perfume alcohol and the name of each type.

 

Extrait 15% to 30% scent

Eau de parfum 8% to 15% scent

Eau de toilette 4 % to 8% scent

Eau de Cologne 3% to 5% scent

Eau Fraiche 1% to 3 % scent

 

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Botanical raw materials in natural perfumery attempt to get as close as possible to the smell of the donor plant. Concretes, absolutes and essential oils are the three most common forms in which these smells are captured. Concretes are traditionally made when the heat from steam distillation would adversely affect the odour. The plant material is macerated in one of a number of volatile solvents, which causes the absolute and much of the wax (stearoptene) to dissolve. After filtration the solvent is removed by the application of gentle warmth.

 

Having a very low boiling point it evaporates easily leaving behind the concrete, which is a mixture of absolute and wax. To turn a concrete into an absolute pure alcohol is used. As the absolute is completely soluble in alcohol and the wax only partially it is easy to separate the two. Absolutes are the purest and most concentrated form of an essential oil. Both concretes and absolutes are closest to nature but can be very difficult to work with. As well as all important molecules of aroma they can also contain very strong colours and can have very high wax contents.

 

The natural colours form part of the charm and beauty of natural fragrances but the waxes make them difficult to work with. Many absolutes at room temperature are solid making it impossible to use them or measure small quantities with precision. Benzoin resin in its natural state is like hard toffee and Orris Root concrete is solid like candle wax. In order to get round this we make them into mobile tinctures, which can then be measured with ease down to one hundredth of one millilitre using a pipette.

 

The majority of tinctures improve with age and some benefit from very long term aging. Our extraits are blended in certified organic grain alcohol, which has previously been aged. We age our alcohol to soften it enabling it to marry more effectively with the most delicate of floral fragrances. To encourage the softening process we add a blend of essential oils, which also act as fixatives and other botanical extracts to make it more gentle on the skin. The alcohol is aged for at least six months before we use it make up extraits. The amount of alcohol we lay down is determined by our sales volume to ensure that we always have supplies.

 

Our Extraits are effectively single note fragrances containing 20% aromatic material in aged organic grain alcohol. Many can be used as single fragrance natural perfumes or blended to give more complexity. You can also add them to any fragrance to introduce new notes. We recommend the addition of spring water to finished fragrances but the amount will vary with the composition. Water softens the alcohol and helps enhance the scent content so it is an important part of a finished fragrance. Alcohol and water will mix perfectly without any milkiness but once oil is introduced milkiness will occur at certain concentrations. Remember that you can always add more water but you cannot take it out. As a rule of thumb it is safe to add 8% spring water to the final composition. If you want to add more than this, add it slowly in small increments. The tipping point is arrived at suddenly. This is usually done before cold filtration as this results in less wastage due to absorption by the filter paper.

 

 

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